Fog, traffic, tango – part 2

I’m in Turkey for the Istanbul tango ritual, staying with a tanguera friend I met in Buenos Aires. This is the story of the second day of my visit.

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Awaking at lunchtime on Saturday I look out the window to more fog. And on the highway 100 metres away, traffic. There are festival classes and seminars we could go to but sightseeing is the order of the day for me. In addition we have a wedding to go to this evening, starting at 7pm in the Asian side of Istanbul. Two bridge crossings in one afternoon, followed by another two for the festival milonga is a silly waste of time so our sightseeing is confined to the Asian side of the city. We go to Maiden’s tower, normally a nice viewpoint for both sides of the city, but today really only the Asian side is visible. The European side is almost completely lost in the fog. The drive there takes about an hour. Afterwards we spend nearly another hour getting to the Kadikoy part of the city and wander around for a while before sampling some traditional Turkish food. Another 45 minutes gets us back to the flat to change and head off to the wedding. Now we’re running late but another similarity between Buenos Aires and Istanbul is timekeeping. We arrive at the wedding venue, very close to where we spent the first part of the afternoon at about 7:30pm, a good 30 minutes before the bride and groom make their entrance. About 3 hours later we leave and rejoin the traffic across the Bosphorus to the Saturday night milonga.

This one is held on an artificial floating island called Suada. There is a ferry service from the shore on the European side to the almost invisible in the fog floating resort. The milonga venue is much larger than YEM on Friday night and there are about 400 people here. There are rows of seats on three and a half sides of the square space, a bar, the entrance and stairs to an upper seating level on the other half side. Through the floor to ceiling glass walls there is nothing visible in the murk. There is a nice wooden floor but probably due to the humidity in the air from the fog, it is incredibly sticky. Several people liberally scatter talc on the floor and lubricate the soles of their shoes but the effect doesn’t last long. I dance one tanda and decide I probably won’t dance many more.

The dancing tonight is more nuevo than on Friday night with more couples moving in random directions, lots of dancing large, lots of high flying Comme il Fauts and more than a few collisions. I am reminded of Brownian motion. The music is traditional tango, arranged in tandas and again just a little on the loud side. The exhibition performance is earlier than I expect given the scheduled 6am finish and is called “Generations”. In addition to last night’s performers it includes father to two of them, Gustavo Naveira, and his partner Giselle Anne. It’s far too choreographed and drags on far too long for my liking although the comedy elements are slightly amusing,

By the time the exhibition performance is over the fog has thinned considerably and the European side of the city can be seen twinkling in the murk. Possibly coincidentally the floor is now less sticky but the dancers are no better behaved. Despite me dancing very defensively in collision avoidance mode two of my partners get stabbed by followers and/or trodden on by leaders. I don’t hear any apologies.

We stay until about 3:30am, just missing out on a Pugliese tanda which starts as we leave. There is still traffic on the roads but no delays and we’re home in less than 40 minutes.

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