Another day another city

On Saturday I boarded the Z53 overnight sleeper train from Beijing to Xi’an. My berth was a soft sleeper. There are four classes of train tickets in China

  • hard seat – cheapest, nastiest, least comfortable.
  • soft seat – more comfortable, recline a bit.
  • hard sleeper – six bunks in a cabin, bedding provided. Supposedly better than it sounds but I’ve yet to find out.
  • soft sleeper – four bunks in a cabin with a lockable door, thicker mattress. Hot water provided so you can make your own tea or coffee.

You can only buy tickets in person at the station you’ll be travelling from and only a few days in advance. They sell out fast so getting the class you want on the day you want is unlikely. You pretty much have to take what’s available for the day you want, or buy a ticket for further into the future or for a higher class than you want.

I couldn’t get a hard sleeper for any day from Beijing to Xi’an and could only get a soft sleeper for two days later than I wanted. Anyway, I made it to Xi’an and the journey was easy and comfortable. The train was punctual and left Beijing at precisely 20:03. My cabin companions who spoke no English at all were OK.

Xi’an was grey and much cooler than Beijing when I arrived at just after 08:10 on Sunday morning. I deposited my backpack in the left luggage facility and took a bus straight to the Terracotta Army. The museum comprises three halls constructed over the excavation sites. None of them are fully excavated. Of the much fabled 6000 warriors only a little over 1000 have actually been excavated. So it was interesting but overrated in my opinion.

By the time I got back to the city the rain had started and two days later it is still raining. My sightseeing has been seriously curtailed. Yesterday I visited some of the city centre sights but gave up on the idea of walking the city walls. Today I’m catching a sleeper to Chengdu. Tomorrow morning I’ll visit the giant pandas and in the evening catch a plane to Guilin. Unlike train tickets, plane tickets can be booked and bought in advance and remotely. So rather than hang around in Chengdu for an unknown number of days waiting for a train I’ve decided to fly one leg of my itinerary. And I’ve cut a few places out because it’s just not practical to see as many as I wanted given the restrictions imposed by train travel.

The weather hasn’t been conducive to taking many photos but you can find those from Beijing and Xi’an at Flickr.

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