Posts Tagged ‘Lobuche’

EBC trek 28 March – Fail!

Friday, April 1st, 2011

Today was supposed to be the big day: Lobuche to Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp and back to Gorak Shep. I had no headache or other altitude sickness symptoms so was good to go.

It was snowing again in the morning and for the first time I wore my waterproof coat over my fleece. We left at 07:30 and passed both the Gap Adventures group and the Adventure Company group who had left about 07:00. It was a fairly gentle ascent and the trail was quite slippery. We arrived at 09:30. It was still snowing and misty with about 200m visibility.

Goki spoke to another guide who had tried to get to Base Camp that morning and given up because it was too unsafe. So no Base Camp attempt for us either. And to add to the disappointment we wouldn’t be able to attempt Kala Pathar in the morning because the trail would be too icy and dangerous. Close, but not close enough; I don’t get to cross Everest Base Camp off my bucket list this time.

With no spare days in my itinerary there was no point staying overnight at Gorak Shep so we had a very early lunch and then headed back down to Lobuche in an hour and a half. The snow had stopped and the sun made an occasional appearance. We had a cup of tea and then continued down to Pheriche, which took another two hours. We’re staying at Pumori Lodge and appear to be the only guests tonight. My room is freezing but at least the light works.

The weather was basically rubbish all day so there aren’t many photos worthy of a second look. There aren’t many from yesterday either; Dingboche to Lobuche was quite tedious really. The latest ones are at Flickr anyway. Despite the duff weather I really enjoyed the trek down today and wasn’t too disappointed by not getting to Base Camp or being able to attempt Kala Pathar tomorrow. And somehow, even though the sun hardly made an appearance all day I got a sunburned nose.

Today we went from 4950m to 5200m back down to 4200m. A long and tiring day.

EBC trek 27 March

Friday, April 1st, 2011

Yesterday was a rest day at Dingboche. I joined the Australians I met a few days ago – Phil, Hayley, Duane, Melissa and their guide, Raj – on an acclimatisation trek up another 350m. We left at 08:00 and by 11:00 the clouds and mist were spreading up the valley and spoiling the view. Luckily we were on our way back down by then. It snowed in the afternoon.

Today we left Dingboche at 07:30 and headed up a snow dusted valley to Lobuche where we arrived at 11:15. The first teahouse we tried was full but the second had rooms. The going was noticeably harder again and I arrived at Lobuche with a slight headache, no appetite and feeling very tired. All indicators of possible altitude sickness. Phil and co. arrived about 12:30 and the group from Gap Adventures I had met in Tengboche arrived a bit later. Phil, Hayley, Duane and Raj invited me to join their acclimatisation walk at 14:30 but I felt too tired. It was snowing gently but they went anyway. After a couple of hours I took some paracetamol and by teatime my headache was gone, I was feeling hungry and the tiredness had passed.

Tomorrow is the big day: up to Gorak Shep and then a return trip to Everest Base Camp. We’ll stay overnight at Gorak Shep and then at first light head up Kala Pathar for spectacular views of Everest and the neighbouring peaks. Then it’s breakfast and start our descent, aiming for Pheriche the following night.

The latest photos are at Flickr